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Colby Hill Inn offers food and wine with a regional focus

By LINDA A. ODUM
For the Monitor
March 03. 2004 8:00AM

The folks at Colby Hill Inn in Henniker don't just see themselves as being in the lodging and dining business. Innkeepers Cyndi and Mason Cobb and Chef Jeannine Carney feel they are in the business of making memories for their guests. So it should come as no surprise that they go out of their way to make dinner here a memorable experience.

"My definition of good food is quality ingredients, cooked well and prepared properly," said Chef Jeannine. "A dish where I am going to be able to taste the main ingredient without it being covered up too much with a lot of extra sauce. And that is something I try to do here."

"We consider our food to be contemporary New England cuisine, and we stick closely to New England ingredients like apples, squash and seafood," said Cyndi Cobb. "An innkeeper has a vision of what you want the dining experience to be for your guests. The three of us make a great team because we are on the same page in terms of what kind of quality we want to provide."


Gingered Carrot Flan with microgreens, cheddar cracker and basil chive oil, Colby Inn, Henniker. (Concord Monitor photo/Ken Williams)
   

After purchasing the inn in September 2000, one of the first steps the Cobbs took was to update the wine cellar. Now their wine list consists of around 120 types spanning the spectrum from low- to high-end price offerings.

Mason Cobb, the resident wine connoisseur, includes descriptions of each bottle on the wine list, so guests may choose one to fit their tastes. And the menu provides a wine suggestion for each entrée.

"What I will try to do is decide what on my list will go with a particular dish and be reasonably priced," said Mason. "So, every time the menu changes, my wines by-the-glass change." Mason is also happy to help a guest make a selection. "I have a good cross section of wines by-the-glass that are adaptable to the food we sell. So, depending on whether a guest likes a full bodied wine such as a strong (Cabernet Sauvignon), I've got that by-the-glass. Or if they would like something lighter, I could go to a Pinot Noir. You have to feel the person out a little bit to discover what they would like to try."


Chef Jeannine, Colby Inn, Henniker. (Concord Monitor photo/Ken Williams)

   

The Cobbs and Chef Jeannine host wine dinners throughout the year. Each dinner consists of five courses, with four courses of wines and a wine expert to provide commentary about that evening's offerings. The wine commentary may come from a wine distributor or a representative from a particular vineyard, including local vineyards such as Flag Hill in Lee.

"It is an event," said Cyndi. "We seat only 40 to 50 people. You arrive at 4:30 p.m. and stay for two to three hours." The next wine dinner is scheduled for March 21 and will feature Australian wines from Yalumba Vineyards.

Colby Hill also offers international theme dinners, such as the upcoming "Hot Tuscan Nights" on March 10. And the inn recently began its Cooking Inn Series, which features lunch and a cooking demonstration by Chef Jeannine.

"We kept noticing people asking for recipes or wanting to meet Jeannine and ask her questions," said Cyndi. "So we decide to try the cooking demonstrations. Jeannine does an hour-and-a-half demonstration, and there is always at least one hands-on task for the guest to do. Then lunch follows." The March Cooking Inn is sold out. The next one is scheduled for April 4 and will feature a spring garden party theme.

Teaching seems to come naturally for Chef Jeannine, a former instructor at the New England Culinary Institute in Montpelier, Vt. She also appears regularly on WMUR TV's Cook's Corner during the noontime broadcast.


Bittersweet chocolate pudding cake w/ butterscotch gelato sauce, Colby Inn, Henniker. (Concord Monitor photo/Ken Williams)

   

"Everyone thinks that cooking is a big mystery, and sometimes that is what a chef will base their business on," said Chef Jeannine. "But I don't want people to be intimidated. I actually had someone come up to me at the last cooking demonstration and say, 'I really like the way you talk to people. You talk to us like we are friends.'"

   
If you would like to give a Colby Hill Inn dish a try, Chef Jeannine has provided the recipes below. The Citrus Dijon Vinaigrette, from January's wine dinner, is a great way to dress young spring greens. The Carrot Flan, Butterscotch Gelato and Chocolate Pudding Cake will be on the March .
 

Citrus Dijon Vinaigrette

1 clove garlic, peeled
1 shallot, peeled
1 teaspoon each orange, lemon and lime zest
¼ cup Dijon mustard
½ cup champagne vinegar
½ cup olive oil
1 cup canola oil
¼ cup combined citrus juices (from lemon, lime and orange)

In a food processor fitted with the blade attachment, place garlic, shallot and zests. Pulse until finely chopped. Add the mustard and vinegar; pulse until combined. Combine the two oils and, with the machine running, add slowly until mixture is creamy and combined. Add in the juices at the last minute. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Gingered Carrot Flan

4 medium carrots
3 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon sugar
pinch cinnamon
grated zest of 1 orange
1 knob of ginger, peeled and grated
¾ cup heavy cream
1 egg
1 egg yolk
salt and pepper
Preheat oven to 300 degrees.

Peel carrots and cut very thin. Place carrots in a 4-quart saucepan over medium heat, then add the butter, sugar, cinnamon, orange zest and ginger. Add enough water to cover the carrots and cook with lid on for 5 minutes. Uncover and cook over higher heat until carrots are soft.

Process in a blender or food processor.

Season the cream with salt and pepper and bring to a boil. Add the cream to the carrots and purée until smooth.

Blend in the egg and the egg yolk.

Butter four 3-inch custard cups or other molds and add the carrot purée to fill them. Place molds in a dish, add water to come halfway up the cups and bake at 300 degrees for about 45 minutes. Let the flans rest for 10 to 15 minutes before unmolding.

Serve as a side dish or an appetizer.

Butterscotch Gelato

3 tablespoons butter
½ cup brown sugar
6 cups of milk, divided
1 cup of granulated sugar
12 egg yolks, beaten
1 tablespoon Scotch whiskey (optional)

In large saucepan, heat butter and brown sugar until butter is melted and sugar is dissolved. In a bowl, mix together 3 cups milk, granulated sugar and egg yolks. Remove saucepan from the heat and add bowl mixture to saucepan, stirring constantly until blended. Return saucepan to medium heat. Cook, stirring, until mixture just coats a metal spoon. Remove from heat.

Stir in remaining milk and the scotch, if using.

Cover and chill several hours or overnight. Freeze in a 4- to 5-quart ice cream freezer container.

Bittersweet Chocolate Pudding Cake

1 cup flour
¾ cup granulated sugar
3 tablespoons cocoa
2 teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
½ cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 teaspoon vanilla
¾ cup brown sugar
¼ cup bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
1¾ cups boiling water

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

In a mixing bowl, stir together flour, sugar, cocoa, baking powder and salt. With a fork, mix in milk, oil and vanilla. Spread the batter evenly in a lightly buttered 9-inch square baking pan. Combine brown sugar and ¼ cup chocolate; sprinkle over the batter. Slowly pour boiling water over the batter and brown sugar/chocolate mixture. Bake for 40 minutes. Let cake stand for 5 minutes. Spoon into dessert dishes or cut into squares. Serve with whipped cream or ice cream.

 
(Colby Hill Inn is located at 3 The Oaks, a short distance from Henniker town center. Directions and complete listing of the inn's culinary events can be found on the Web site, colbyhillinn.com, or by calling Cyndi and Mason Cobb at 428-3281. Dinner is served each evening (except for Mondays from January through April.) Dress is smart casual. Reservations are recommended.)

 


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Passport to New England

 Colby Hill Inn
New Hampshire Bed and Breakfast
Cyndi and Mason Cobb, Innkeepers
3 The Oaks, PO Box 779, Henniker, New Hampshire 03242
Telephone: (603) 428-3281 Fax: (603) 428-9218
For Information and Reservations, U.S. and Canada Call Toll Free (800) 531-0330 
E-Mail: innkeeper@colbyhillinn.com   Website: www.colbyhillinn.com

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